HIGHLIGHTS FROM DAY 1 OF PARIS FASHION WEEK
We've come to expect sex from Anthony Vaccarello, but not with the tomboy attitude he offered up for spring. Knee-length skate shorts and pleated trousers were shown alongside his signature crotch-skimming skirts, many of which had curved asymmetrical hems. There was also tension between pieces that had nautical elements -- navy stripes, grosgrain ribbon, grommets and round buttons -- and those that felt more "club kid," like a strapless dress made out of strips of leather that were printed with the word "SPRING." (As in, you know, spring 2015.) But it was the stripy stuff that will sell. Bring those hems down an inch or two, and you've got a look that's still racy, but also wearable.
American editors who used to arrive just in time for Dries Van Noten's show on Wednesday afternoon are now making a point of flying in on Tuesdays. First, it was for Vaccarello. But now there's Jacquemus, too. Designer Simon Porte Jacquemus's spring collection attracted quite the crowd, which was seated around piles of open beach umbrellas, blown-up inner tubes, rafts and floaties. Jacquemus's girls marched around the scene smiling, their hair made to look dripping wet from the ocean. They sure did appear to be having fun, and the clothes were just as jolly. The most commercial bits -- including a yellow and white striped A-line dress and a white pinafore -- are sure to be snapped up at retail by anyone looking for an ace summer look. The more advanced pieces -- such as a blue-and-white striped mini skirt with a loop extending from one side that made it look like candy ribbon -- will be plucked by more adventurous dressers. But whatever Jacquemus creation they choose, they're almost guaranteed to have a good time wearing it.
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HOOD BY AIR
For Part 2 of his spring 2015 collection, Hood by Air designer Shayne Oliverrented out the 28th floor of a giant office building on Paris's Left Bank. (He showed Part 1 during New York Fashion Week.) Oliver positioned models under wonky fluorescent lights or seated on desk chairs that looked like they were left over from a previous tenant. (The rest of the space was empty, and the floors raw.) It was hard to take your eyes away from the deeply serious expressions on each model's face: they looked more aggravated than pensive, but not exactly angry. Once you did, though, there were some fantastic clothes. The fashion crowd talks a lot about Hood By Air's wearability factor, but that conversation will end soon. Sure, Oliver's revealing leather cage trousers aren't likely to be worn alone on a Saturday afternoon coffee run, but pretty much everything else would suit just fine. Oliver's talent shined this season when he transformed traditional pieces like a white shirt -- laced up the sides with what looked like metal bungee cords -- and a pleated skirt, split straight up the front and back. The cage idea emerged again in a series of overlays that featured deconstructed vests. Ironically, there was something really freeing about these pieces. That seems to be at the crux of what Oliver is doing. His clothes are about getting people to open up and think about fashion in a different way.
Hong Kong-raised, London-based brothers Eri and Philip Chu wanted to create their own gang of power girls for Ground-Zero’s spring 2015 collection, so they went for the poppy, primary color palette worn by their favorite Marvel superheroines. Barbed wire showed up on everything from a mini-shift dress to a yellow neoprene top, and there were graffiti and comic book prints, too. The result was pure pop art. “Our woman is confident, energetic and bold," said Philip. "Pretty much like a Superwoman.”
(Image: http://www.kissydressinau.com/purple-formal-dresses )